The standard for azelaic acid in pharma & cosmetics

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I am looking for the active ingredient azelaic acid for pharma applications.

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I am looking for the active ingredient azelaic acid for cosmetic applications.

About azelaic acid

Azelaic acid (1,7-hepanedicarboxylic acid) is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid. It occurs amongst others in cereals like wheat, barley and rye. Extracts of these cereals have been used since 3000 years in Ayurveda products to treat hyperpigmentation (skin lightening). Azelaic acid also exhibits bactericidal properties, and was shown to be very effective for the treatment of acne vulgaris. Azelaic acid has also been shown to be effective for the treatment of baldness.

Azelaic acid obtained from natural resources is not commercially available; the extraction process is very difficult and expensive. On the other hand, azelaic acid can also be produced by ozonisation of oleic acid. Ozonisation is a hazardous reaction that can easily run out of control. The alternative is oxidation of oleic acid with peracetic or performic acid. This route goes via the 9,10-epoxide, followed by subsequent oxidation of the epoxide. The oxidation of oleic acid results in the formation of azelaic acid and nonanoic acid. Oleic acid required is obtained from hybrid sunflower oil and milk thistle oil. This choice of starting material enables to produce a grade of azelaic acid of more than 99% purity where regular azelaic grades are specified at 85-90%.

Azelaic acid is an odourless, white and highly crystalline solid with a melting point of 110ºC. It is soluble in glycerol and glycols, but poorly soluble in water (2,1 g/l). The solubility of azelaic acid is pH dependant; the mono- and disodium salts are significantly better. Also micro-emulsions based on sorbitan esters using glycerol and lauryl alcohol as co-surfactants enable to dissolve azelaic acid.

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Applications

The many azelaic acid uses are unique in the pharmaceutical & cosmetic industry. Azelaic acid is best defined as a cosmeceutical ingredient, what means that it shows both cosmetic and pharmaceutical properties. Azelaic acid exhibits superior performance for skin lightening, treatment of acne, control of rosacea, stimulates regrowth of hair and reduces redness and hyperpigmentation.

Skin lightening

Azelaic acid is beneficial when used for skin lightening and brightening or to maintain under control any hyperpigmentation process. Azelaic acid is also used for the treatment of melasma, lentigo maligna and other disorders of hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid is also effective for hypermelanosis caused by physical or photochemical agents, lentigo maligna melanoma as well as other disorders characterized by abnormal proliferation of melanocyte.

Treatment of acne

Azelaic acid is believed to function on the basis of its antimicrobial activity and normalization of keratinization. Keratinization means the process by which epithelial cells mature as they move towards the skin surface and then desquamated. The European Union considers azelaic acid as a cosmetic ingredient that can be applied without concentration restrictions.

Control of rosacea

Azelaic acid has been demonstrated to be effective for the treatment of rosacea. It is available as a cream or a hydrogel. It reduces inflammatory lesions and erythema in rosacea patients and also inhibits neutrophilic ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species). In the neutrophil system azelaic acid inhibits the ROS formation in a dose-dependent manner, markedly decreasing the number of free radicals.

Stimulates regrowth of hair

Azelaic acid is a well-known inhibitor for 5a-reductase and is therefore able to inhibit the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone. Due to the relative absence of dihydrotestosterone regression of the hair follicle will take place (the catagen stage), and subsequently hair generation will take place (the anagen stage).

Azelaic acid is proven to inhibit the 5a-reductase which is the enzyme that will convert testosterone to 5a-dihydrotestosterone which is the major cause of hair loss. Basically if the dihydrotestosterone is eliminated hair loss will be stopped or minimized. Products containing Azelaic Acid, vitamin B6, and Pyridoxine hydrochloride, in low doses show a 90% reduction in this 5a-reductase activity leading to reduction of hair loss and/or many times regrowth.